Sleeping among orangutans in Borneo: Tanjung Puting National Park

Looking at an orangutan in the eyes is unforgettable...

During a month, I’ve (Eli) explored different sides of Indonesia: Hindu temples and volcanos in Java, rice fields and buddhist temples in Bali, dreamy beaches in Gili islands and Lombok…

But, without a doubt, the most unique experience was sleeping on a fisherman boat in the deep jungle of Borneo.

Pack your curiosity (and maybe a lot of bug spray), because we’re about to dive into the lush, wild, and fascinating world of Borneo’s Tanjung Puting National Park — home to some of the last truly wild orangutans on Earth!

Tanjung Puting National Park: Protecting the orangutans

The kings of the jungle

Imagine waking up in a jungle where the locals — orangutans, to be specific — are hanging out in the trees, eyeing you like you’re the weird one. Yep, it’s a dream!

These amazing red-furred apes are not only the stars of the park, but they also carry the weight of an entire conservation effort on their very broad shoulders. Due to illegal logging, habitat destruction, and poaching, they’ve become some of the most endangered creatures in the world.

Tanjung Puting’s conservation programs are more than just a "nice-to-have" — they’re a lifeline for these mighty creatures. If you visit the park and book your travel arrangements/accommodation directly through a local provider, you’ll be part of that mission to protect them. How cool is that?

The last orangutans

The last wild orangutans in the world are found only on the islands of Borneo and Sumatra, making them some of the most critically endangered great apes on the planet. Habitat loss is due to deforestation, illegal logging, and palm oil plantations. If protection measures fail, we could lose them within a few decades.

From hidden rainforest to conservation powerhouse

Back in the day, Tanjung Puting was just your typical dense, green rainforest. That all changed when Dr. Biruté Galdikas, the Jane Goodall of orangutans, came along in the 1970s and started documenting, studying, and most importantly, protecting these animals. Her efforts turned this hidden gem into one of the largest and most respected conservation parks in Southeast Asia. It’s living proof that one person (and a few orangutans) can change the world, step by step, animal by animal.

The Klotok life: Sleeping among orangutans and fireflies

The coolest way to explore Tanjung Puting National Park is to sleep on a klotok. Errr, what now? A klotok is a simple fisherman’s boat-turned-floating safari lodge, and it’s how you’ll be getting around the park.

Forget Instagram-perfect hotels and trust me: you want to do this! You’ll float slowly down the Sekonyer River, surrounded by the hum of jungle life, watching orangutans and spider monkeys swing through the trees as you sip your coffee (or kopi, in Bahasa Indonesian).

I could get used to klotok life...

At night, the boat becomes your bed — I slept on the upper deck with a good mosquito net, my long sleeves on and a bunch of repellent —, and the jungle’s symphony is your lullaby. Falling asleep surrounding by these sounds, and a million fireflies, is an experience I’ll never forget.

Our crew during these 3 days was a family of fishermen who cooked fresh fish and other delicacies for us. Best food I had in Indonesia, and an awesome way to get to know the locals off the beaten path!

Oh, and watch out, orangutans love Indonesian Asli sauce — so do I! — and won’t hesitate to steal it from the boat’s kitchen!

It’s rustic, it’s raw, a pure communion with the universe. Plus, you can say you've slept on a boat named after the sound it makes (yes, klotok-klotok).

A true rainforest safari

The orangutans: stars of Borneo

There’s nothing quite like coming face-to-face with an orangutan in the wild. I still remember the first one I saw, his incredibly intelligent eyes curiously staring at me, and the goosebumps all over my body.

And in Tanjung Puting, it happens more often than you’d think. The park's feeding stations bring orangutans close enough for you to see their expressive faces as they grab bananas with those freakishly human-like hands.

The park rangers know them on a personal basis, and will warn you if some of them display agressive behaviours.

Other wild neighbors

While the orangutans steal the spotlight — look at them, why wouldn’t they? — they’re far from the only wildlife you’ll encounter. Keep yan eye for the weird-looking proboscis monkeys (trust me, their noses are... something else), spider monkeys, mischievous macaques, and if you're lucky, the elusive hornbill birds. Oh, and there are crocodiles lurking in the rivers. Friendly reminder: you’re not the top of the food chain here, so maybe keep your hands inside the klotok.

A botanical heaven

The park is home to some seriously cool flora, including a few carnivorous plants that are just as wild as the orangutans. One standout is the Nepenthes, or pitcher plant, which have evolved to trap and digest insects inside its pitcher-shaped leaves, luring prey with nectar before closing the trap. You'll also find towering dipterocarp trees, sprawling mangroves, and the famous Rafflesia, known for its giant, pungent blooms.

Borneo logistics

What to pack?

This isn’t your typical beach vacation, so pack wisely. Lightweight clothes but with long sleeves and legs, sturdy shoes, and a hat to keep the sun (or rain) off your face are must-haves. A good camera is essential because you’re going to want proof when you tell your friends back home that an orangutan threw a banana peel at you (it happens). And yeah, definitely an extra-strong bug spray for exotic climates.

Penguin Trampoline tip:

You can soak your clothes and mosquito net with permathrin before your trip. It’s a synthetic chemical widely used as an insecticide, repellent, and acaricide. While generally safe for humans and pets, bear in mind it’s toxic to cats and aquatic life, so make sure to use it properly. I can confirm it’s highly efficient!

I had packed a treatment for malaria, but due to heavy side effects, I ended up not taking it. With all the bug spray and clothes precautions, I only got bitten once — on my finger which didn’t have spray on!

How to get there?

To reach Tanjung Puting National Park, you’ll need to fly into Pangkalan Bun, a small town in Central Kalimantan, Borneo — the airport alone is worth a trip! You can fly to Pangkalan Bun from pretty much anywhere in Indonesia.

From there, it’s a quick transfer to Kumai, where you’ll hop aboard a klotok to begin your jungle adventure. Most tours last 2-3 days, with plenty of wildlife-spotting along the way.

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When to visit?

The dry season (April to October) is the best bet for clearer skies and comfortable trekking. Obviously, it’s the jungle, so expect some humidity year-round!

A final word of advice for any trip to a Muslim country: check Ramadan dates, as many things are closed around this period, including tours and public transport.

Here’s a playlist for your rainforest adventure (be prepared for a gamelan overload while in Indonesia..):

Orangutans are critically endangered, and their rainforest home is shrinking. Tanjung Puting is one of the last refuges where these mighty, intelligent creatures can roam free. Visiting isn’t just about checking something off your bucket list — it’s about supporting conservation and spreading awareness.

So, if you're ready for an unforgettable, slightly sweaty, jungle adventure where you sleep under the stars, hang with orangutans, and witness nature in its rawest form, then Tanjung Puting National Park is waiting!