Into the Wild: 10 things to do in Alaska
McCarthy, gateway to Wrangell-St.Elias National Park, at the end of a 70 miles gravel road.
Few tourists venture as far as Alaska, and even Americans tend to forget about this remote state. Yet, Alaska is more accessible than it seems, with several direct flights between Europe and Anchorage, and even Fairbanks. And, as a bonus — if clouds allow — a breathtaking view of the Greenland ice cap.
If, as a child, you dreamed of National Geographic documentaries on bears, salmon and gold diggers, we invite you to discover this wild land on a trip to Alaska that will awaken all your senses...
Travel to Alaska: Must-sees
Anchorage: Where businessmen cohabit with moose
American cities are all similar... Except perhaps Anchorage. Just a stone's throw from the financial center's handful of skyscrapers, salmon leap happily in the river and moose nibble on flowers in people’s gardens. Anchorage isn't just an essential stopover for renting a car, spending the night and stocking up on supplies. It's well worth strolling through this unusual city — where businessmen in suits contrast with fishermen — and sharing an Alaskan beer with the friendly locals.
Penguin Trampoline tip:
Army Surplus stores are a great place to find high-quality outdoor gear at a reduced price. Stop by if you need anything before venturing out, from waterproof boots to jackets and hats.
Katmaï National Park: The Alaska postcard
When thinking of Alaska, you probably imagine grizzly bears fishing, or rather catching salmon on the fly. And that's exactly what you'll see in Katmaï. Accessible by float plane from Anchorage, this National Park is a paradise for animal lovers. Grizzly bears compete in their ingenuity to catch salmon, and sometimes, dozens of them join the feast. The incredible abundance allows them to eat only the fattest part in preparation for winter. It’s an unforgettable show in a spectacular setting, which you can observe in complete safety from the built walkways.
Did you know?
In salmon season, bears focus on the most caloric parts of the fish — head, skin and eggs — and discard the rest.
A great all-you-can-eat buffet for seagulls!
On the picture: A black bear and seagulls having a feast near Valdez
Seward: A small town at the end of the world
The gateway to the Kenai Fjords National Park, Seward is a picturesque little town at the end of the world. It can be reached by road or by panoramic train. The train sometimes stops in the middle of the track to allow passengers to board, and the small windows between the carriages are ideal for filling up on fresh air! If you're short on time or the weather's not cooperating, the Alaska Sealife Center is well worth a visit. You'll have the chance to get up close and personal with a puffin.
How cute is this puffin? By the way, I learned my lesson: Don’t ask Alaskans if they eat puffin — they’ll be shocked to hear that Icelanders do!
Kenai Fjords National Park: Did you say “Glaciers”?
The Kenai Fjords National Park is a must-see for any trip to Alaska. Embark on a cruise to discover almost fluorescent-blue glaciers and an incredibly rich fauna. When the boat turns off the engine, the only sound to break the silence is the clatter of breaking ice. You may even spot orcas, whales, otters or fish eagles. Back on land, don't miss the Exit Glacier, a perfect —and worrisome — illustration of glacial retreat. And if your thirst for ice hasn't been quenched yet, the 26 glaciers of Prince William Sound await you...
50 shades of blue, Kenai Fjords National Park
Denali National Park: A front-row seat to wildlife
If you dream of discovering Alaska in complete safety, it's hard to imagine a better place than Denali National Park. Although it's possible to hike here (with a permit issued by the rangers and armed with a good bear spray), most visitors opt for bus tours. It’s very "adventurous" at first glance, but it's an effective solution to avoid uncontrolled traffic in the park by concentrating vehicles on a single road.
An enthusiastic ranger will help you catch a glimpse of the local inhabitants. If you're lucky, you may cross paths with the "Big Five": moose, caribou, grizzly bear, Dall's sheep and the elusive wolf. The other star of the park is, of course, the majestic Mount Denali (formerly McKinley), the highest peak in North America.
Napping Grizzly bear, Denali National Park. Aren’t they adorable — when they sleep?
Travel to Alaska: Off the beaten track
Valdez: Who will catch the biggest salmon?
Nestled between sea and mountains, the flower-filled town of Valdez is a haven of peace. Infamous for the Exxon Valdez oil spill and being completely destroyed by a terrible earthquake in 1964, Valdez is now a quiet fishing port. In season, the return of the salmon fishermen and the measurement of their trophy is an event not to be missed.
Don't hesitate to strike up a conversation with the locals to find out where to enjoy the best salmon bake! They'll also tell you the best places to see black bears. Although they’re smaller than their brown counterparts, caution is still advised, especially if the wind is not in your favor or if cubs are around.
Big fish
The world record salmon is a 97 pound, 58 inch long Chinook salmon caught in Soldotna, Alaska in 1985.
Of course, this has been a topic of controversy since then!
On the picture: The winners of the day and their catch in Valdez
McCarthy: At the end of the road
At the gateway to the remote Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, McCarthy looks like something out of a Western movie. Cars have to be parked outside (except for a few rusting carcasses abandoned decades ago), the streets are unpaved, and the saloon sits alongside old wooden buildings.
It's hard to believe that 28 people live here, especially as it takes almost 3 hours to cover the 70 kilometers of gravel road! A little further, the old Kennicott copper mine takes on a ghostly appearance. In this movie setting, strap on your crampons and discover the treasures of the Root Glacier. Between turquoise-blue puddles and natural sculptures, you'll find yourself in a true museum of ice...
9-hours trek on the mighty Root Glacier. What a day!
Fairbanks: The Northern Lights capital
When arriving to Fairbanks, you'll quickly realize that everything here revolves around two things: the Northern Lights and sled dogs. In fact, the latter are the real stars. Photos of the winners of the famous "Yukon Quest" race are proudly displayed everywhere, sometimes along with those of their mushers. And they share the fame with the Northern Lights.
In the icy silence of the polar night, occasionally interrupted by the howling of the dogs, Lady Aurora, decked out in green, blue, purple or red for the lucky ones, might just make her appearance...
If you stay 3 nights in Fairbanks (in season), you'll have 80% chance of seeing the Northern Lights — a claim I was lucky enough to verify in late August. Check our guide for tips!
On the picture: Lady Aurora at 2am near Fairbanks — it’s finally dark enough!
Chena River: The Gold Rush
Take a day trip back to pioneer times! Board a paddle-steamer, then join a restored gold dredge to pan for gold. North Pole also attracts many visitors, as this is where all the children's letters to Santa arrive when they address them to the North Pole. And North Pole takes this very seriously, from Santa's house to Snowman Lane, not to mention the candy cane-shaped lampposts. Come on, it’s fun!
Moose Jam
Along the way, you may come across a moose jam, a small traffic jam caused when a driver spots a moose on the side of the road. The same goes for bear jams!
On the picture: Moose jam in progress near Denali
Dalton Highway: Into the Wild
Alaska is already remote. But if you really want to get off the beaten track (literally), the Dalton Highway is a dream for any self-respecting adventurer. After a journey of over 660 kilometers on an unpaved road that runs alongside the Trans-Alaskan Pipeline and crosses the mythical Yukon River, the Arctic Circle and the Brooks Range, you'll reach Deadhorse and Prudhoe Bay. Beware, accommodation is scarce. Will you be tempted to take an Arctic dip at the edge of North America?
Beyond Fairbanks, the concrete road becomes the unpaved Dalton Highway.
Ready to explore "The Last Frontier"?
