Finnish Lapland in fall: Cozy wilderness beyond Rovaniemi
On the lookout for moose in Finnish Lapland!
If you’re yearning for the perfect autumn escape, Finnish Lapland is your dream come true.
Vast tundra and taiga landscapes stretching as far as the eye can see, vivid fall colors, cozy log cabins with crackling fireplaces, warm saunas, cold lakes, and the northern lights dancing overhead.
Whether you’re an intrepid adventurer or someone who just wants to snuggle up with a good book and hot cocoa, Finnish Lapland offers the perfect blend of wild and warm.
Many of our followers and readers hesitate between Rovaniemi vs Kiruna, or Rovaniemi vs Tromso.
So, follow us to explore Finland off the beaten path, way beyond Rovaniemi, through the most beautiful national parks, remote villages and tranquil lakes!
Helsinki cathedral
We wanted to visit our friends Altti and Elina, so it was the perfect occasion. Like other Nordic capitals, Helsinki has more of a small city flair. If you stop for a day or two, don’t miss Suomennlinna Island and make sure to have a yummy salmon soup at the harbor market!
Santa Claus train from Helsinki to Rovaniemi
We love trains, especially when they’re overnight, so we hopped on the Santa Claus train at 11pm from Helsinki. The train ride itself is part of the magic. We booked a small cabin, and there’s a shared bathroom. You can buy some food at the bar, but our friends Altti and Elina had prepared a picnic with our favorite Finnish products! Waking up in the middle of the forest was magical.
Rovaniemi is where the Arctic Circle begins, and trust us, you’ll feel the temperature shift in the air. It’s a small town with big charm, offering everything from reindeer sleigh rides to a personal meeting with Santa himself.
Santa Claus Village might be fun for kids and magical in winter, but we’d definitely recommend getting out of Rovaniemi and exploring the true, off-the-beaten-path Lapland.
If you need anything like outdoor gear, be sure to stop at the local mall, as you won’t find “large” cities beyond Rovaniemi.
So, after a delicious Arctic meal at Ravintola Roka Street Bistro — featured in our article on Arctic Food — we picked up our rental car and hit the road.
Santa Claus Village
The Santa Claus Village put Finnish Lapland on the map — kudos for that! — but unless you have children, we wouldn’t consider it as ‘must-see.’ Besides the post office and Santa’s house, you’ll just find a bunch of shops and expensive tours/accommodations.
Kemijärvi and around
Kemijärvi: Welcome to the Happy Villages!
We booked our first accommodation in Kemijärvi, a lovely cabin — with a sauna, of course — by the lake. We were lucky enough to see northern lights reflecting on the lake! If you want to see them too, check out our best tips to see the northern lights!
If you’re looking for something a little off the beaten path, Kemijärvi is the place to be. This small town is the epitome of Lapland coziness. Nestled on the shores of Finland’s northernmost lake, Kemijärvi offers stunning views, friendly locals and a peaceful atmosphere.
There’s a good reason why it’s one of Finland’s Happy Villages, a network of slow-paced villages where you can get away from civilization and enjoy the simple pleasures of life: fishing, hiking, swimming, saunaing and just relaxing!
Make sure to stop by Susa’s bistro, where you’ll find yummy local food and a lovely owner.
Eli enjoying the cold water of Kemijärvi lake
Oulanka National Park
Oulanka National Park feels like it’s out of a Finnish postcard. This park is famous for the Karhunkierros Trail, a 50-mile route that takes you through some of Finland’s most stunning landscapes. Don’t worry if you’re not up for the whole trek; there are shorter, easier routes that are just as breathtaking. Think gushing waterfalls, dense pine forests, and suspension bridges that sway gently over mighty rivers.
While fall was stunning — and surprisingly hot! — we would love to come back in winter.
Keep an eye out for reindeer and moose — they might just be your hiking buddies.
Oulanka Canyon
Pyhä-Luosto National Park
Just a short drive from Kemijärvi is Pyhä-Luosto National Park, where you’ll find ancient fells that have been standing tall for over two billion years. Yes, you read that right — billion, with a ‘B’! This park is a paradise for anyone who loves the outdoors. In winter, the slopes are perfect for skiing and snowboarding, while summer and fall offer fantastic hiking trails.
Jake in Pyhä-Luosto National Park
One of the highlights here is the Amethyst Mine, where you can dig for your own amethyst — a beautiful purple gemstone that’s said to bring peace and balance. We just went for the hike, but it sounds fun!
We had great reindeer at Sámi Cafe Uksakka.
Penguin Trampoline tip:
Finnish Lapland is a great starting point for new hikers. The landscape is less dramatic and flatter than its Norwegian or Swedish counterparts, so trails are less steep. On the main trails, you’ll find convenient huts to rest and make a fire. But keep in mind you’re in the Arctic: the weather can change very quickly, so be prepared!
Inari and around
Inari: The heart of Sámi culture
Speaking of the Sámi, Inari is the cultural heart of Sámi life in Finland. We booked our second accommodation about 20 minutes from Inari, also by a lake and with a sauna, of course.
This small town is surrounded by pristine nature, and it’s where you can immerse yourself in the traditions and history of the Sámi people. It’s home to the Finnish Sámi Parliament. We visited the Siida Sámi Museum to learn about their way of life, from reindeer herding to handicrafts. While driving, make sure to tune it to a Sámi radio station for awesome music! You’ll find more information about the Sámi people and culture in our article on Swedish Lapland.
Inari is also the gateway to Lake Inari, the third-largest lake in Finland, dotted with over 3,000 islands. In winter, the lake turns into a vast, white expanse that’s perfect for cross-country skiing and snowmobiling. And if you’re lucky, you might catch the northern lights. Unfortunately, we got unlucky with the weather!
We went a couple of times to PaPaNa Bar to have a reindeer pizza as we just loved the edge-of-the-world, remote vibe.
Finland’s forests are home to bears, wolves, and… the elusive wolverine. Wolverines are scavengers by nature —going from adorable to straight scary when eating — often feeding on the remains of larger animals. They’re rarely seen, making any encounter with one a truly special experience in Finland's wild north.
Muotkatunturi
If you crave solitude, silence and untouched nature, Muotkatunturi is calling your name. This remote wilderness area is for the true adventurer. There are no marked trails, just endless open spaces where you can hike, snowshoe, or ski to your heart’s content. It’s the kind of place where you might go days without seeing another person. We literally hiked during 5 hours without seeing a soul — except when Eli had to go to the bathroom, of course! Just us and the raw beauty of Lapland.
Muotkatunturi is also home to the Sámi people, the indigenous inhabitants of Lapland. Learning about their culture and traditions adds a rich layer to your experience. It’s a place that feels both wild and deeply spiritual.
Utsjoki
For those who really want to get away from it all, Utsjoki is the place to go. Located near the Norwegian border, at the end of the road, Utsjoki is one of the northernmost municipalities in Finland, and it’s as remote as it gets.
A stop the the local cafe and grocery store is a must. Straight out of a movie!
Ruska reflection: the view from our Airbnb!
Here, the landscape is dominated by the Teno River, one of Europe’s top salmon rivers. Utsjoki is also one of the best places to experience the polar night, where the sun doesn’t rise for weeks—an experience that’s strangely peaceful and otherworldly.
Ruska
Ruska is a term used in Finland to describe the fall colors as leaves turn various shades of red, orange, and yellow. It’s especially beautiful in the northern regions, where the contrast between the colorful foliage and the dark, evergreen forests creates breathtaking landscapes. The brief show of nature marks a transition, signaling the approach of winter.
Nuorgam
Blink and you’ll miss Nuorgam! This tiny village is right on the border with Norway, and it’s as far north as you can go without leaving Finland.
The scenery here is rugged and beautiful, with rolling hills, winding rivers, and vast stretches of wilderness. It’s a fantastic spot for northern lights hunting, as the lack of light pollution means you get some of the clearest views around.
Near Nuorgam... Norway is on the other side!
Nuorgam might be the end of the road, but it’s the start of an unforgettable adventure in the true north.
Make sure to stop at Art Miriam: we fell in love with this artist and brought back a bunch of Arctic-inspired artwork!
The EU’s northermost point
Nuorgam is located right on the border between Finland and Norway and is the northernmost settlement within the European Union.
Here’s a Sámi music playlist to inspire your adventure up North:
Finnish Lapland is a place where the wild meets the cozy, where ancient traditions blend with modern comforts, and where every day brings a new adventure.
Whether you’re taking a scenic train ride to Rovaniemi, hiking through ancient fells, or soaking up the tranquility of remote villages like Utsjoki , Lapland offers an experience for everyone.
We definitely want to come back in winter, when the magical landscapes are covered with a thick blanket of snow, and the frozen trees are eerily beautiful!
And one last piece of advice: watch out for reindeer on the road!
