5 destinations in Portugal off the beaten path

Sign on a beach in Portugal

"Happiness is here" (Praia das Bicas) - We can only agree!

When we first started exploring Portugal’s highlights, we thought we knew what to expect: the picturesque tram of Lisbon, the amazing Sintra, the beaches of the Algarve, and, of course, a pasteis de nata or two.

But trust us — Portugal has so much more to offer when you veer away from the typical tourist hotspots. So, we rented a car and decided to venture deep into the heart of the country. It’s these hidden gems, tucked-away villages and wild stretches of coast, that really made us fall in love with the country.

If you want to discover Portugal like we did, here are 5 places in Portugal off the beaten path. And don’t worry about the language: we were super impressed with English level of the locals!

Spoiler alert: It’s impossible to eat just a pasteis de nata or two. There’s a reason why they sell them in tubes!

Nazaré & Ericeira: Old traditions, new vibes

Nazaré is one of those places that surprises you. Sure, it’s famous for those terrifying, record-breaking waves (if you’re lucky enough and visit in fall-winter, you’ll be able to watch the pros tackle them — it’s insane). But the real heart of Nazare is its old-school charm. You can still see women selling dried fish on the streets, dressed in their traditional skirts. And a foodie tip: head to Taberna d'Adélia for some of the freshest seafood you’ll ever eat.

Warning sign in Nazare, Portugal

100 Foot Wave

During lockdown, we watched the ‘100 Foot Wave’ on HBO and decided to visit Nazaré as soon as travel resumed. So we did, and we absolutely fell in love with this unpretentious, quaint town! You can read all about “The Big Wave Capital of the World” in our article dedicated to Nazaré, Portugal.

On the pic: The height of the waves in Nazaré!

Just down the coast, Ericeira has a more chilled-out, surfer vibe. We had friends living there at the time, so they showed us around, and we got to stay at their place, on a cliff right above the ocean! The waves are great, but even if you don’t surf, there’s something about this town that pulls you in. We walked through the picturesque cobbled streets lined with whitewashed houses trimmed in blue. At sunset, we had a drink at Praia da Foz do Lizandro: pure paradise!

Azenhas do Mar & Colares: Cliffside villages and an old mansion

The first time we arrived in Azenhas do Mar, it felt like we’d stepped into a postcard. This tiny village clings to the cliffs, with white houses cascading down toward the sea. It’s quiet, almost eerily so — and it was Halloween! —, but in the best way.

More picturesque, impossible: Azenhas do Mar

What drove us to Azenhas was our accommodation, which was one of the most unique places we ever stayed at.

Casal Santa Virginia, an historical mansion overlooking the sea — in the rain and fog, the perfect setting for a Halloween night — is an absolute gem. The value is incredible, especially when you consider the charm of the house, the breathtaking views, the prime location, the cozy rooms, and the warm, welcoming staff — not to mention the homemade pastries! We stayed in the Golden Room, and to our surprise, the bathroom had been beautifully renovated since the Booking photos. It was stunning.

Breakfast was a real treat, with freshly baked pastries and cakes served in a charming veranda overlooking the sea. Everyone we met was so friendly, making us feel completely at home (honestly, I wish home felt this cozy!). We could have easily stayed for months!

Jake, Penguin Trampoline, in Cabo da Roca, Portugal

Cabo da Roca is the westernmost point of mainland Europe, feeling like the edge of the world, with rugged cliffs plunging into the Atlantic and invigorating winds. There’s something humbling about standing there, knowing there's nothing but ocean between you and America.

Colares, just a short drive away, is where you’ll find Portugal’s oldest wine region. We had a hearty, authentic meal at Retiro Do Saloio — you won’t see many tourists there! And if you’re into hiking, there’s a trail that runs from Colares to Praia da Adraga, one of our favorite hidden beaches. Pack a picnic and spend the day exploring this quiet corner of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park.

And speaking of which, while highly touristic, Sintra is an absolute must-see!

Barão de São João: The Algarve you didn’t expect

Everyone goes to the Algarve for the beaches, but inland? That’s where you’ll find the soul of the region. We didn’t want to stay at a big tourist restort or in a massive building, which, unfortunately, is your typical Algarve accommodation.

So, we opted for a rustic house in the countryside instead! Barão de São João is a tiny village that feels like a time capsule. Although only a 15-min drive from Lagos, we felt like we were worlds away from the touristy coast.

And if you’re into hiking, the surrounding hills are a dream.

Of course, we also visited the Algarve Coast and its beautiful beaches. You can find plenty of information on it out there!

Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina: A rugged, untamed coastline

Costa Vicentina is wild and raw, the kind of place that makes you feel small in the best way — a feeling we love at Penguin Trampoline! We walked along the coast of Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano, stopping at the most beautiful beaches.

Praia da Bordeira, Portugal

Praia da Bordeira, Portugal

Praia da Bordeira was one of our favorites — giant stretches of soft sand, dramatic surroundings and barely anyone around. We stopped in Sagres for a delicious lunch of fresh fish and spent the rest of the day completely unplugged from the world, with a sunset apotheoses at Praia da Ponta Ruiva.

Eli, Penguin Trampoline, running at sunset on Praia da Ponta Ruiva, Portugall

Eli enjoying sunset at Praia da Ponta Ruiva

Pack plenty of water, sunscreen, and a light jacket — coastal weather can be unpredictable, but the solitude you’ll experience is something we haven’t found anywhere else in Portugal.

Penguin Trampoline tip:

The back roads of Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano can be a little rough for a standard car, with lots of holes and mud. Drive slowly, allow plenty of time, and turnaround if needed!

Sesimbra, Cabo Espichel & Praia das Bicas: Sunsets and solitude

Sesimbra was a surprise for us. It’s still a working fishing town, which means the seafood is out of this world (seriously, eat at O Velho e o Mar — you won’t regret it). But it’s also close enough to Lisbon that you can visit for a day or two and still feel like you’re off the beaten path — at least off-season, as it gets really busy in summer. In fall, we found a great and cheap accommodation with sea views!

We had the best pasteis de nata and other pastries at O Caseiro.

Pasteis de nata from our accommodation in Sesimbra, Portugal

Pasteis de nata

You can’t visit Portugal without trying pastéis de nata. These little custard tarts are a staple here, and we can confirm — they’re as good as everyone says they are. We lost count of how many we ate during our trip, and it’s hard to pick the best one! The secret? Eat them fresh out of the oven.

On the pic: Pasteis de nata — our drug while in Portugal!

We spent hours wandering through the old town and exploring the tiny shops and convenience stores. We also explored the nearby coves & beaches in Parque natural de la Arrábida, and the Moorish castle for panoramic views of the coastline.

On our way back to Lisbon, we stopped at Cabo Espichel and watched the sheep grazing in front of the Santuario de Nuestra Señora del Cabo Espichel. We can’t describe the peaceful, almost surreal atmosphere!

And then there’s Praia das Bicas. You’ll have to navigate a winding road down the cliffs to get there, but once you do, it feels like you’ve found your own private beach. The waves are strong, but we loved just walking along the water, watching the surfers and soaking up the raw beauty of the place. Bonus: it’s one of the best spots for sunset in all of Portugal.

Penguin Trampoline blog separation line

Here’s a playlist to set the vibe for your Portuguese adventure.

So, if you’re planning a trip to Portugal, don’t just stick to the well-worn path. These are the places where you’ll find the real heart of the country. Plus, you have to try as many pasteis de nata as you can!

We’ve been there, we’ve fallen in love, and we know you will too.

Now, we’re longing to explore the North of Portugal, and to go back to Nazaré to see the 100-foot waves!

Penguin Trampoline - Eli & Jake

We’re Elinor & Jake, a married couple living in Spain, with a common passion for exploring our beautiful planet.

Read our full story and background here.

While we’re aware that tourism is inherently not sustainable, we believe that it’s difficult to respect or care about something without experiencing it.

For us, there’s a happy medium. That’s why we offer travel articles, pictures, videos, inspirational playlists and advice crafted from first-hand experience, taking into account the visitors’ and the locals’ point of view.

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